The first day started with a gentle climb through cathedral-like old-growth forest, where massive Douglas firs and western hemlocks created a cool, green canopy. After 3 miles, the trail steepened considerably as we gained the ridge, transitioning from deep forest to subalpine meadows. The wildflower display was spectacular - acres of lupine, paintbrush, and avalanche lilies carpeted the slopes. We took a long lunch break at Panorama Point (mile 5.5) where the full scope of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness spread before us. The final push to Upper Basin involved some rocky switchbacks, but the effort was rewarded with a stunning campsite beside a crystal-clear tarn. We set up camp with plenty of daylight remaining, allowing time to explore the basin and watch marmots emerge from their burrows as the afternoon sun warmed the rocks.

Day two was the most challenging and rewarding of the trip. We broke camp early to tackle the exposed ridge section before afternoon storms threatened. The climb out of Upper Basin was steep and relentless, gaining 1,800 feet in less than 2 miles over loose talus and granite slabs. Once on the ridgeline, the trail became more of a route-finding exercise, with cairns marking the way across open rock. The views were absolutely worth the effort - Mount Rainier dominated the southern horizon while glaciated peaks stretched endlessly to the north. We encountered a family of mountain goats picking their way across impossibly steep terrain. The descent to Granite Ridge Camp required careful foot placement on loose rock, but we arrived at our campsite by mid-afternoon. This elevated camp offered incredible sunset views and we watched the alpenglow paint the peaks pink and orange as daylight faded.