The first day started with a gentle climb through cathedral-like old-growth forest, where massive Douglas firs and western hemlocks created a cool, green canopy. After 3 miles, the trail steepened considerably as we gained the ridge, transitioning from deep forest to subalpine meadows. The wildflower display was spectacular - acres of lupine, paintbrush, and avalanche lilies carpeted the slopes. We took a long lunch break at Panorama Point (mile 5.5) where the full scope of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness spread before us. The final push to Upper Basin involved some rocky switchbacks, but the effort was rewarded with a stunning campsite beside a crystal-clear tarn. We set up camp with plenty of daylight remaining, allowing time to explore the basin and watch marmots emerge from their burrows as the afternoon sun warmed the rocks.